ARSON AROUND with Auntie A.L.F.
your guide for putting the heat on animal abusers every where


by Auntie ALF, Uncle ELF, and the anti-copyright gang


(Note: this is mearly a shortened on-line version of this manual which has not been reproduced in full. It is advisable to get a copy of the full manual which contains many diagrams and news articles which may or may not be useful. Available from the NA - A.L.F.S.G.. We hope to bring you diagrams and more soon, but don't hold your breath.)

INTRODUCTION:

Hello, boys and girls, Auntie Alf here, with a handy-dandy booklet for all of you -- not necessarily to encourage anyone to go out setting fires of your own, (something that could get you in quite a bit of trouble as I'm sure you know) -- but to help us all gain a better understanding of some of the devices used in incendiary attacks as carried out by the Animal Liberation Front.

The paragraphs which follow will describe the preparation of several igniter (or "first fire") incendiary mixes, some basic incendiary mixes, and a thermate metal-destroying incendiary. The subject of incendiaries has been treated much more exhaustively in other publications. The intent of this handbook is to provide an introduction to a few techniques.

Arson is not always used by the A.L.F. in the course of an action, but when it is, it can be devastatingly effective. Millions of dollars in damage has been caused against fur-feed companies, slaughterhouses, department stores and fur shops, fast-food restaurants and transport trucks belonging to animal abuse industries. When incendiaries are used in an action, the activist must make absolutely sure that no animals, human or otherwise will be inadvertently injured or killed. A.L.F. activists make sure that all buildings or vehicles are free of creatures before lighting a single match. On more than one occasion actions has taken months to plan and coordinate have been called off in the middle of execution when a night watchman or other person's life might inadvertently be endangered.

Arson is not a tool to take lightly, and carries very stiff penalties if activists get caught. The assumption that evidence is destroyed by fire is incorrect. Fire investigation units will turn up if the origins of a fire appears suspicious. They possess a large degree of skill and are able to determine the flash point of a fire and what caused it (electrical fault, cigarette, candle, spontaneous combustion, deliberate arson, etc.). They can also tell the flamable substance which was used to start the fire (gasoline, paraffin, paper, etc.). Activists know to TELL NO ONE of their plans and make sure they LEAVE NO EVIDENCE behind at the scene.

GENERAL:

Good incendiaries can be improvised more easily than explosives and the materials are more easily obtained. On a pound by pound basis, incendiaries can do more damage than explosives against many types of targets if used properly. There is a time lag, however, between the start of the fire and the destruction of the target. During this period the fire may be discovered and controlled or put out. An explosive once detonated has done its work.

Incendiaries are cheap and little training is needed for their preparation and use. Used in very carefully executed operations, the act of sabotage may be concealed in the ashes of an "accidental" fire. Fires may be started quickly and have reasonable chance of success if the following few simple principles are observed:

1. See that there is plenty of air and fuel to feed the fire.
2. Use an incendiary that supplies a prolonged and persistent heat.
3. Start the fire low in the target structure and let it spread naturally upwards.
4. Use reflecting surfaces such as corners, boxes, shelves, to concentrate the heat.
5. Use drafts to spread the fire rapidly - near stairways, elevator shafts.
6. Protect the fire from discovery during the first few minutes by good concealment and timing.


In preparing improvised incendiaries observe basic rules of safety. Chemicals that must be powdered should be ground separately with clean tools and then mixed in the indicated proportions. Chemicals or mixtures should be kept tightly sealed in jars or cans to protect them from moisture. Damp materials will work poorly if at all.

DEFINITIONS:

Common terms used in connection with incendiary systems are defined below. Note that the definitions are worded so as to cover only incendiaries. Some of the terms have additional meanings in the related field of explosives.

a. Delay Mechanism- Chemical ,electrical, or mechanical elements that provide a time delay. Elements may be used singly or in combination. They provide a predetermined, limited time interval before an incendiary starts to burn.

b. Fuse- A flexible fabric tube containing powder that is used to start fires at some remote location. The powder in the fuse burns and provides a time delay.

c. Igniter- An intermediate charge between an initiator and an incendiary material. It is set aflame by the initiator and produces sufficient heat at high temperature to ignite the main incendiary. Igniters are fast burning and relatively short lived.

d. Incendiary Material- A material that burns with a hot flame for long periods. Its purpose is to set fire to wooden structures and other combustable targets.

e. Incendiary System- A group of elements that are assembled to start fires. The system consists of a initiator, delay mechanism (if needed), igniter, and incendiary materials.

f. Initiator- The source that provides the first fire in an incendiary system. A match is an initiator. The initiator is so sensitive that it can be set off with little energy.

g. Spontaneous Combustion- The outbreak of fire in combustible material that occurs without an application of direct spark or flame. The fire is the result of heat produced by the chemical action of certain oils.

h. Thermate- (also Thermite) An incendiary mixture of iron oxide flakes and aluminum powder that reacts chemically when initiated to form molten iron. Thermate can be used to burn holes in steel or to weld steel parts together.

TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES:

The equipment needed for the manufacture of incendiaries consists of simple items. They are all readily available. Required are bottles, jars, pots, and spoons. There should be no difficulty in obtaining any of them. All the necessary equipment is described in each paragraph dealing with particular incendiary component.

It is important that the operator follow the directions given in the manual exactly as written. They have been worked out carefully to give the desired results with the minimum chance of mishap. Don't experiment with different procedures or quantities.

By its very nature, the diaries is dangerous. It is the function of incendiaries to burn with an intense flame under right conditions. Care must be taken that no fires result during the making or placing of the devices. There are also other dangers in addition to the fire hazard. The chemicals used as ingredients may burn the skin, give off poisonous fumes, or be easily flammable. They must not be eaten.

When handled with care and proper precautions, incendiaries are fairly safe to make and use. Detailed precautions follow:

Preventing a Fire Hazard

1. Fire prevention is much more important than fire fighting. Prevent fires from starting.
2. Keep flammable liquids away from open flames.
3. Good housekeeping is the fire prevention. Keep work areas neat and orderly. Clean away all equipment and material not needed at the moment. Clean up spills as soon as possible.
4. Store incendiaries in closed containers away from heat. Do not store materials any longer than necessary.
5. In the event of fire, remove from the danger area if this can be done quickly and safely. Use large quantities of water to fight fires.
6. Horse play is dangerous and absolutely intolerable.


Avoiding Chemical Hazards

1. Wear rubber gloves, apron, and glasses when handling concentrated chemicals if at all possible.
2. Avoid inhaling fumes. Perform reactions in a well ventilated area or out of doors because the boiling is often violent and in large amounts, fumes are given off that are poisonous if breathed too much.
3. Avoid acid contact with the skin. If chemicals are spilled on a person, wash immediately in running water for several minutes. If they splash in eyes, wash the eye in running water for at least 15 minutes.
4. Clean up any acid that is spilled on the floor or bench by flushing with large amounts of water. Acid spilled on wood can cause a fire.
5. Always pour concentrated acids into water. Never pour water into concentrated acids because a violent reaction will occur.


*IGNITERS*IGNITERS*IGNITERS*IGNITERS*IGNITERS*IGNITERS*

Potassium Chlorate and Sugar Igniter

Chlorate-sugar is one of the best of the first fire or igniter mixes. It burns very rapidly, with a yellow-white flame and generates sufficient heat to ignite all homemade incendiaries mentioned in this handbook.

MATERIALS:
Potassium chlorate (preferred) or sodium chlorate, sugar, pestle, glass or wood bowl.

PREPARATION:
1. Grind the chlorate separately in a clean, non-sparking (glass or wooden) bowl with a wooden pestle. The resulting granules should approximate those of ordinary table sugar.
2. Mix equal volumes of the granulated chlorate and sugar by placing both on a large sheet of paper and the lifting the corners alternately.

CAUTION:
This mixture is extremely spark sensitive and must be handled accordingly.

3. Wrap 4 to 6 tablespoons of the mixture in thin paper so as to form a tight packet. Keep the mixture as dry as possible. If it is to be stored in a damp area before using, the packet may be coated with paraffin wax.

APPLICATION:
Chlorate-sugar is easily ignited by the flame of a match, the spit of a percussion cap or time fuse. If ignited when under confinement it will explode like gun powder. If it is contained in waxed packet, therefore, the latter should be punched through in several places before it is used with a basic incendiary and ignited.

Flake Aluminum-Sulpher Igniter

This simple igniter burns extremely hot nad will ignite even the metal destroying thermate, described later on. The mixture itself can be lit by chlorate sugar.

MATERIALS:
Flake aluminum, finely powdered sulpher.

PREPARATION:
1. Mix 4 parts by volume of finely powdered sulphur with 1 part of aluminum powder.

APPLICATION:
To use, place several spoonfuls of the mixture on the material to be lit and add a spoonful of chlorate sugar on top. Be sure to safety (time) fuse or other spark-producing delay system is placed so it will act upon the chlorate sugar mixture first.

Homemade Black Powder Igniter

Black powder may be used for igniting napalm, flammable solvents in open containers, paper, loose rags, straw and other tinder type materials. If it is not available already mixed, it can be prepared as follows:

MATERIALS:
Potassium (or sodium) nitrate, powdered charcoal, powdered sulphur.

PREPARATION:
1. Into a clean, dry jar or can, put 7 spoonfuls of potassium or sodium nitrate, 2 spoonfuls of powdered charcoal, and 1 spoonful of powdered sulphur. The ingredients must be at least as fine as granulated sugar. If they must be ground, GRIND EACH SEPARATELY. Never grind the mixed ingredients - they may ignite or explode.

2. Cap the can or jar tightly and shake and tumble it until the ingredients are completely mixed.

APPLICATION:
The mixture will be effective for months if kept tightly sealed and dry. Sodium nitrate in particular has a tendency to absorb moisture. To use the gunpowder, pile 2 or 3 spoonfuls on top of any solid incendiary material which is to be ignited. For igniting liquids in open containers, wrap 2 or 3 spoonfuls in a piece of paper and suspend it just above the liquid.

Gunpowder is best ignited by a safety fuse. It burns very quickly with a great deal of heat, so allow sufficient time delay for safe withdraw from the vicinity.

Match Head Igniter

A good ignition material for incendiaries can be obtained from the heads of safety matches, which are available almost any place. The composition must be removed from the heads to get a sufficient quality of igniter material. It will ignite napalm, wax and sawdust, paper and other flamables.

MATERIALS:
Safety matches.

PREPARATION:
1. Remove the match head composition by scraping with a knife or crushing with pliers. Collect several spoonful of it and store in a moisture tight container.

APPLICATION:
Put at least 2 spoonfuls on the material to be ignited. To ignite liquids, such as solvents or napalm. Wrap several spoonfuls in a piece of paper and hang this just over the fluid, or place nearby. If fluids dampen the mixture it may not ignite. The ignition can be by time fuse, firecracker fuse, or spark.

*INCENDIARY MATERIALS*INCENDIARY MATERIALS*

HOME-MADE NAPALM

This item consists of a liquid fuel which is gelled by the addition of NON-DETERGENT soap powder or soap chips. It is easily prepared from readily available materials. This incendiary can be directly initiated by a match flame. However, if delay is required, the incendiary can be reliably initiated by a delay system. Napalm incendiary is easily ignited and long burning, and is suitable for setting fire to large wooden structures and other large combustible targets: It adheres to objects, even on vertical surfaces.

MATERIALS:
Soap powder or chips (bar soap can be easily shaved or chipped). Detergents cannot be used. Any of the following liquid hydrocarbon fuels: gasoline, fuel oil, diesel oil, kerosene, turpentine, benzol or benzene, toloul or toluene. A double broiler made from any material with the upper pot having the capacity of at least 2 quarts. A spoon or stick for stirring, A source of heat such as a stove or hot plate. A knife or grater if only bar soap is available. An air-tight container.

PREPARATION:
1. Fill bottom of double broiler with water and heat until the water boils. Shut off source of heat.

2. Place upper pot on top of the bottom pot and remove both containers to a point several feet away from the heat source.

3. Pour soap chips or powder into the upper pot of the double broiler to one-quarter of pot volume.

4. Pour any one of the liquid hydrocarbon fuels listed under MATERIALS above into the upper pot containing the soap chips or powder until the pot is one-half full. CAUTION: keep these fuels away from open flames.

5. Stir the mixture with a stick or spoon until it thickens to a paste having the consistency of jam. Do this in a well ventilated room where the vapors will not concentrate and burn or explode from a flame or spark.

6. If the mixture has not thickened enough after about 15 minutes of stirring, remove the upper pot and put it several feet from the heat source. Again bring the water in the lower pot to a boil. Shut off the heat source, place upper pot in lower pot at a location several feet from the heat source and repeat stirring until the napalm reaches the recommended consistency.

7. When the proper consistency is obtained, store the finish napalm in a tightly sealed container until used. Napalm will keep for months when stored this way.

APPLICATION:
To use napalm most effectively, it should be spread out over the surface of the material to be burned. This will start a large area burning at once. A match can be used to directly initiate this incendiary. A short time delay ignition can be obtained by tying or taping a bundle of matches around a lighted cigarette. Ignition occurs when the lighted portion of the burning cigarette reaches the match heads. This assembly is placed directly on the napalm. Usually this will ignite in 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the length of the cigarette, make of cigarette and force of air currents. A duplicate delay mechanism should be tested to determine the time delay for various conditions.

The cigarette must be placed so that the flame will travel horizontally or upward. A burning cigarette that is clamped or held will not burn past the point of confinement. Therefore, the cigarette should not contact any other object other than matches.

In very hot weather, or if the napalm is exposed to the direct rays of the sun, it is recommended that napalm be made with fuel oil. In extremely cold weather, it is recommended that napalm be made with gasoline.

The destructive effect of napalm is increased when charcoal is added. The charcoal will readily ignite and the persistent fire from the charcoal will outlast the burning napalm. It is recommended that at least one quart of napalm be used to ignite heavy wooden structures and large wooden sections. A minimum of one-half quart is recommended for wooden structures of small cross section.

Paraffin-Sawdust Incendiary

Paraffin-sawdust is almost as effective as napalm against combustible targets, but it is slower in starting. It is solid when cool and thus is more easily carried and used than liquid-napalm. In addition, it can be stored indefinitely without special care.

MATERIALS:
Dry sawdust, paraffin, or candle wax, spoon, pot, container.

PREPARATION:
1. Put enough wax in the pot so that it is about half full.

2. Heat the pot on a stove or hot plate until the wax melts.

3. Remove the heated pot from the stove or hot plate and shut off the source of heat. Add the sawdust to the melted wax until the wax is nearly full. Stir the mixture this a spoon or stick for a few minutes, being sure there is no layer of wax at the bottom of the pot which has not been mixed with the sawdust.

4. While the mixture is in a fluid state, pour it into the waxed paper carton or other container. Upon cooling, the wax mixture will harden and take the shape of the container.

APPLICATION:
The mixture can be stored for months without losing its effectiveness. If it becomes wet, it will be effective again when it is dried. Lumps of the mixture the size of a fist are easiest to manage. The chunks of incendiary may be carried to the target in a paper bag or other wrapper. Any igniter that will set fire to the paper wrapper will ignite the wax and sawdust.

A similar incendiary can be made by dipping sheets of newspaper into melted wax and allowing them to cool. These papers may then be crumpled up and used in the same manner as the paraffin-sawdust, although they will not burn as hot and persistency.

Sawdust, Mothflakes, and Oil Incendiary

This incendiary is very good for use against all kinds of wooden structures, including heavy beams and timbers. It also works well on paper, rags, straw, and other timber type materials. It will start fires in open containers of flammable liquids, piles of coal, coke, or lumber, and on baled rags and paper. It is not effective against metal.

MATERIALS:
Dry sawdust, moth flakes (naphthalene), fuel oil (kerosene or diesel oil), spoon, container.

PREPARATION:
1. Place equal parts of sawdust, moth flakes, and oil into a container and stir until the mixture is the consistency of mush.

2. Store it in any container that will retain the oil fumes.

APPLICATION:
An easy, effective way to use this mixture is to put about a quart of it in a paper bag and place the bag on the target material. The bag can be lit with a match and the mixture will ignite quite readily It burns as well as napalm. If a longer delay time is required, use one of the igniter mixes described earlier along with time fuse or other delay device. The time fuse alone, however, will not ignite the incendiary mix. Where very large wood beams are to be burned, an additional amount of the incendiary will be required. Two or three quarts is enough to destroy almost any target against which the technique would be effective. For the greatest effect on wood structures, the mixture should be placed beneath the target material, if possible, so the flames will spread upward. In a packing box or room, a corner is a good place to start the fire.

INCENDIARY BRICK

This incendiary is composed of potassium chlorate, sulphur, sugar, iron filings and wax. When properly made, it looks like an ordinary building brick and can be easily transported without detection. The incendiary brick will ignite wooden walls, floors, and many other combustible objects, and can be hidden amongst building supplies at construction sites (wood piles, etc). This incendiary can be directly ignited by all igniters listed in this booklet coupled with a cigarette delay or similar mechanism.

MATERIALS:
Parts by volume
Potassium chlorate (powdered)-----------------40
Sulphur (powdered)----------------------------15
Granulated sugar------------------------------20
Iron filings----------------------------------10
Wax (paraffin or ordinary candle wax)---------15
Spoon or stick, Brick mold, Red paint, Measuring cup or can, Double boiler, Heat source (hot plate or stove).

PREPARATION:
1. Fill the bottom half of the double boiler with water and bring to a boil.

2. Place the upper half of the boiler on the lower portion and add the wax, sulphur, granulated sugar, and iron fillings in proper amounts.

3. Stir well to blend all the materials evenly.

4. Remove the upper half of the double boiler from the lower portion and either shut off the heat source or move the upper section several feet from the fire. Caution: Extreme care should be exercised at this point because accidental ignition of the mixture is possible. Some means of extinguishing a fire should be at hand, a fire extinguisher or sand. It is important to keep face, hands, and clothing at a reasonably safe distance during the remainder of the preparation. A face shield and fireproof gloves are recommended.

5. CAREFULLY add the required amount of potassium chlorate and again stir well to obtain a homogeneous mixture.

6. Pour the mixture into a brick mold and set aside until it cools and hardens.

7. When hard, remove the incendiary from the mold, and paint it red to simulate a normal building brick.

APPLICATION:
When painted, the incendiary brick can be carried with normal construction materials and placed in or on combustible materials. A short time delay or ignition can be obtained by combining a cigarette delay and one of the igniter mixtures listed earlier. (For example, several spoonfuls of Sugar-Chlorate mixture are placed on the incendiary brick. A cigarette delay or similar timed device is partially buried in the center of the igniter mixture (match heads should be in close contact with the igniter).

Thermate Incendiary

Thermate is similar to commercial thermite, used in welding, except that it also contains an oxidizer, making it easier to ignite. Thermate will readily burn paper, rags, excelsior, straw and other tinder type materials. However, its main use in sabotage operations is against motors, gears, latches and other metal targets--to weld moving parts together, warp precision machined surfaces, and so on. Since it burns with a brief, almost explosive action, it is not recommended for burning wooden structures or other materials where persistent heat is required. Thermate can be made from aluminum or magnesium powder and a chemical oxidizing agent, as described below:

MATERIALS:
Aluminum filings powder or flakes, or magnesium filings or powder, plus any one of the following chemicals: potassium nitrate, sodium nitrate, barium nitrate, potassium dichromate, or potassium permanganate. Although aluminum and magnesium are equally effective, thermate made from magnesium is easier to ignite. Flake aluminum, which is the extremely fine variety used in paints, is excellent. In any case, both the metal and chemical ingredients should be no coarser than granulated sugar.

PREPARATION:
1. Fill a quart size (or larger) container about 2/3 full of equal parts of the metal powder and the oxidizing agent.

2. Cover with a tight lid, then roll and tumble the container until the contents are completely mixed.

3. If flake aluminum is the metal used, fill the container * full of the aluminum then add oxidizing agent until the container is 3/4 full. Mix as described above. Thermate in a sealed container can be stored for months.

APPLICATION:
To use, put 1 or 2 pounds of the mixture in a paper bag and place it on the target in such a way that when it burns the red hot molten material will run down and attack the vital parts. Chlorate-sugar and aluminum-sulphur igniters are best for setting off thermate, particularly if the thermate contains aluminum powder, which is more difficult to ignite.

Incendiary Device

The following is an example of an incendiary device that is popular amongst European A.L.F. activists and was put to good use in Holland against a number of vehicles belonging to meat companies.

MATERIALS NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY:
Empty toilet-roll, iron wire, plastic-wrap, matches, wire garbage ties, firelighters, incense, tape, 2L plastic bottle, gasoline.

HOW THEY MAKE THEM:

1. Take 3 sticks of incense, and wire the 3 wood stems together using wire garbage ties. Use some string if need be to keep the incense close together.

2. Tie as many matches as possible on the incense sticks, near the bottom of the burnable incense material. The incense sticks act as a fuse, lighting the matches. Make sure the match heads are very close together so they will ignite.

3. Take a piece of iron wire and wrap it around the ends of the incense sticks, with the 2 ends loose.

Make a hole in the side of the toilet-roll, roughly 1/4 up from the bottom. Hang the incense bundle inside and pull the 2 loose wire ends through it. The incense bundle should be secured in the middle of the tube, and should not touch the insides.

Fold the 2 wires, each to one side and secure them with tape. MAKE SURE THAT THIS CONSTRUCTION IS STRONG, IF YOU SHAKE IT AROUND A BIT THE INCENSE SHOULD STAY IN ITS PLACE. USE STRONG WIRE AND TAPE.

4. Secure a square of plastic wrap around the bottom of the toilet tube with the tape.

5. Break the heads off of at least two small boxes of wooden matches. Take fire-lighters (the ones you use for your vegan BBQ) and break them into little pieces. Mixing the matches and firelighters together, put them inside the toilet tube, filling closely to the matches tied onto the incense sticks.

6. Cut off several long lengths of iron wire (4 pieces for each device) and twist them together like this: *(wires are 10cm/4 inch.)
*picture shown here


leaving 2 ends untwisted. Secure the toilet tube within the open wires and continue to twist the loose ends together, tight. Secure the wire in place near the top of the toilet tube with some tape, keeping it in place. The wire ends must be at least 10cm long.

7. The device is now ready, and can be transported inside a small box. Fold the wire like this *(picture shown) to protect the incense sticks during transportation.

8. Each 2L plastic pop bottle should be 3/4 full of gasoline. When you arrive at your target, cut the tops of the bottles off with a stanley knife. Put the bottles under the target (i.e. behind the front wheels of a meat truck). Take the device and fold the iron wires into their old position. Light the incense sticks (all three) BEFORE you place the devices in the bottles.

9. Make sure that the bottom of the device is not hanging in the fuel. If necessary, fold the iron wires so the device hangs higher. The incense will burn down and light the match heads tied at the base. These will flame and ignite the match heads and firelighters. All of this will melt through the plastic wrap and fall into the gasoline. Maximum damage guaranteed.

DO NOT LEAVE EVIDENCE! Always wear gloves when in contact with any of the materials making up this device. Do not leave anything behind at the scene (i.e. tops of bottles, box for transport, etc.). Never forget to bring a sharp knife with you to cut the bottles. Always check to see if there are people or animals in the area or inside the target who might get hurt by your action. Good luck!

This booklet is anti-copyright. Please feel free to make many copies and distribute far and wide. Remember, fire can be an effective tool, but must be used with caution. Be safe and make sure to never endanger any person or animal by your actions. LEAVE NO EVIDENCE --- always wear gloves and protect your work space and your materials from hair, fiber, fingerprints and DNA traces that might lead back to you or your active cell. Good Luck!


********************************************************************************


Time Delayed Incendiary Devices
This is another simple electrically timed incendiary device for use in both buildings and vehicles. Make sure you don't leave any finger prints on any part of the device, wear gloves at all times when manufacturing and placing any incendiary device. All you need is a mechanical kitchen timer, a brand new 9v battery (w/cap), an automobile backup light bulb, some thin electrical wire, some strike anywhere matches and a soldering iron.

First you break off glass on the bulb so as to expose the filament, being careful not to break it. Heating the glass with a lighter and then touching it to cold water usually does the trick. (Instead of a light bulb you may want to use a model rocket engine igniter.)

Now with your soldering iron, attach one wire from the battery cap to the tip of the bulb, and then solder a 6-8 inch length of wire to the metal side of the bulb's base. (When the other tip of this wire is connected to the second wire from the battery cap/battery, the circuit will be complete and the matches will ignite . . . that's the general idea.)

Take the kitchen timer and glue a toothpick or match stick to the rotating pointer, in effect extending the circumference of the rotation. Glue the two loose ends of the wire to the non-moving section of the timer at the 12 - o'clock position, so that the toothpick on the pointer will connect the two wires when it winds down to zero. (Make sure not to connect the battery until you are about to set the timer).

Now you can set your timer for up to an hour and leave. You will need a little more to make your fire go. Suggestions include attaching match heads to the igniter and putting it in a pile of fire-starter gel, next to a plastic bag of starter fluid in the middle of a pile of charcoal, or in a small packet containing a mixture of half sodium chlorate (weed killer) or potassium nitrate (saltpeter) and half white granulated sugar. You can help along your fire by placing your device on top of or beside a plastic container of any flammable liquid (kerosene/gasoline/etc.).